South Korean skincare ingredient company Incospharm has unveiled a groundbreaking active ingredient that claims to reverse the effects of glycation, a major contributor to skin aging. The new ingredient, ICP De-Age I, works by activating autophagy to eliminate existing advanced glycation end products (AGEs), which have long been associated with signs of aging such as wrinkles, loss of elasticity, and skin sallowness.
Glycation occurs when sugar molecules bind to proteins like collagen, leading to the formation of AGEs. As these AGEs accumulate over time, they contribute significantly to the aging of the skin. While sugar has not traditionally been recognized as a primary cause of aging in the same way that sun exposure or pollution has, consumers are increasingly aware of the risks posed by excessive sugar intake, particularly in the context of longevity.
Last year, German multinational Beiersdorf addressed sugar-induced skin aging with the launch of Nivea Q10 Dual Action Serum, which focuses on combating what the company terms “sugar damage” to the skin. Incospharm’s development of ICP De-Age I marks a significant advancement in anti-aging skincare, as it not only addresses the prevention of AGE formation but also offers the potential to reverse existing damage.
Dr. Jeong Sekyoo, director and chief technology officer at Incospharm, explained that while many current anti-glycation ingredients rely on antioxidant properties to combat oxidative stress and prevent the formation of AGEs, ICP De-Age I takes a unique approach by activating autophagy. This process helps to remove AGEs already present in the skin, offering a more comprehensive solution to glycation.
Clinical studies conducted by Incospharm demonstrate the effectiveness of ICP De-Age I, with results showing a reduction in AGE levels by 8.49% after two weeks and 13.36% after four weeks of use. Dr. Jeong emphasized the significance of these findings, noting that until now, there has been little evidence to support the reduction of AGE levels through cosmetic products.
Beyond its antioxidant activity, ICP De-Age I also addresses AGE receptors, known as RAGE, which play a role in triggering oxidative stress and inflammation in the skin. In ex vivo tests, the ingredient was shown to reduce the expression of RAGE, helping to mitigate the skin’s inflammatory responses. Dr. Jeong explained that by preventing the formation of AGEs, the ingredient also reduces the activation of AGE receptors, thus diminishing inflammation and improving overall skin health.
The impact of ICP De-Age I on skin aging was also demonstrated through improvements in skin elasticity, hydration, melanin levels, and erythema. As a result, the active ingredient shows promise as a multi-faceted solution to combat various aspects of skin aging.
Looking to the future, Incospharm is continuing its research into skin glycation and exploring the potential of exosomes as a means to further address the effects of glycation on the skin. The company’s ongoing efforts reflect its commitment to developing innovative solutions for anti-aging skincare.
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